Connecticut Preparedness 

A community of Connecticut neighbors discussing topics important for preparedness and self-reliance.

Reloading, Gunsmithing, and Ammo
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By JohnB
#468
right, and instead of forking up for new rollers they simply ground the bolt face down a little instead, eek
By jeff4570
#469
I wouldn't worry , there are CETME bloggs on the internet and I never read about any problems such as you describe , of course I don't know exactly what Century arms did but they must have sold thousands of the new CETMEs .
User avatar
By djmiked
#470
I still would check the bolt gap in the gun. I check all my HK type guns all the time. I make this part of the cleaning routine, it only takes 2 seconds to check. Obviously you need a clean rifle to do this otherwise all the crud that gets in the trunion area may give you a false reading.
User avatar
By djmiked
#472
Jeff, not to sound like a jerk but because you haven't read about it on the internet doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I have personal shot and seen HK style rifles with zero bolt gap. The guns beat themselves to death. The trunions are so worn they need to be replaced. The buffers in the stock so beat up that the metal on the stock starts to seperate from the wood/plastic. Even buffers that started to bend because of thezero bolt gap condition. Bolts start to peen on the inside where the rollers sit (you need to remove the rollers to see this) because the boltface is pounding into the barrel because the rollers can't get pushed out any further.

It is something that is very easy to check and correct. Century Arms isn't known for making the best rifles.
By jeff4570
#482
Ill check that out next time I have it out .

Question : Is there a plastic buffer (pad) available for that gun so the bolt assy doesn't smash too hard into the back of the reciever ??
I saw something like that being sold for another rifle .
User avatar
By djmiked
#483
Yes it is made by a company called Buffer Technologies. I believe brownells and a few others carry it.
By jeff4570
#492
I just got a video about this , makes it easy to understand : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFESb8TK7ZA

Now I guess I should get new rollers ?

Should I order bigger ones ? Where can I get them ?

Just ordered a recoil pad anyway .
User avatar
By djmiked
#494
First, measure your bolt gap and see what you have. Second would be to take the rollers out and see which ones are installed in your gun. They may or may not be standard size rollers, who knows what Centry put in your gun? If you have a good bolt gap, you shouldn't have to worry about buying new rollers anytime soon. Just keep an eye on it.

Take a measurement and let me know what you come up with.
By jeff4570
#495
After pulling the trigger I tried an old gapper I had , its very old and its marked in numbers like 1 , 1-1/2, 2 , 3 , 3-1/2 up to 25 .
My bolt gap is a #3 so I measured it with a micrometer and I got a reading of .002 inches .
User avatar
By djmiked
#496
You seem to be on the extreme low end if that is the measurement. You have almost no bolt gap. First check to see what size rollers you have in the gun. If they are standard I would say you will need at least plus 4 rollers. But who knows maybe you have (minus) rollers in there.

Take the rollers out and see if there are any lines marked on the underside of them. If there are not, take your micrometer and measure the rollers. Let me know what you come up with.

The locking piece can also affect your bolt gap if it is too worn. You may want to try a new looking piece along with new rollers. All of these can usually be found at RTG.
By jeff4570
#497
The rollers look clean and uniform but as I said before ,the gun was filthy dirty when I got it and wouldn't function after 6 rounds .
I noticed that the bolt was very tight in the carrier , I had to wash it out and lube it again , had to put it in a vise to open it in order to put it back in the gun .
I cant see anything unusual with lights and magnified glasses (that i use for electronic work) and it functions 100% at the moment .
I ordered +4 rollers , Ill let you know what it looks like when I install them .

By the way , any photographic instructions on how to take the bolt apart ?
User avatar
By djmiked
#498
Not really, they can be a PIA to put back together. You just need brute force by hand to put the things back together. A friend of mine made me a fixture so to speak to use with taking the bolt on and off the carrier. It is made out of delrin I believe and comes in very handy. I think he charged me like 30 or 40 bucks for it and it is well worth it. If you look on the left side of the carrier there is an arm that holds the bolt on. If you depress the back of this it is eaier to install the bolt. Trouble is, the spring in there is pretty hard to move by hand, hence the tool/fixture. All it does is put pressure on the back of the lever to relieve the pressure on the front side where the bolt engages it.
By jeff4570
#499
Since I don't use it much and its showing no signs of wear anywhere , Ill just cross that bridge when I come to it , maybe Ill learn more about this rifle , its pretty interesting so far, the only reason I bought it was because it was so cheap in the first place .
I bought it on a whim , I needed a good tough "Battle rifle" to fill a gap in my collection and it has a very interesting history too.

I have a Spanish style stock coming in the mail and a sight screw and a recoil buffer pad and a few big rollers (if i use them or not) ,
the only thing Ill really need now is the buckle that holds the sling in the back of the butt stock , any ideas ??

JohnB ; RE : your previous post "right, and instead of forking up for new rollers they simply ground the bolt face down a little instead, eek" .

How could that be possible since the extractor extends past the bolt face ?
Or is there that much tollerance ?
By jeff4570
#500
I found this instruction page on the bolt assembly : http://www.surplusrifle.com/cetme/boltd ... /index.asp

Look at item # 9 and 11 .

Is this accurate ? It appears to show the "GAP" while the bolt is in the open position and then shows a closed gap as normal , are you sure the gap is measured while the trigger is pulled ?

Why does my bolt lock when I pull the trigger instead of just the hammer hitting the firing pin ?
User avatar
By djmiked
#502
The picture is "accurate" in that it shows you where to measure the gap. The bolt MUST be in the gun to be able to take a measurement. Everything will depend on where the barrel was pressed in and how worn the trunion is. You need the bolt to be in the most forward position to get an accurate reading. By cocking the bolt back and letting it go forward under hand pressure is not the same thing as the recoil of the gun, so you need to pull the trigger so it hits the hammer and makes sure the bolt is as far forward is it can go.
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